What is Platinum Blonde Hair?
Platinum blonde is a hair color that is achieved by lightening the hair to a pale, very blonde shade. The level of this hair is level 10. In other words, it is as light as human hair can possibly be. In addition, it has been toned with a violet or a cold blue ash blonde toner so that any remaining warmth in the hair has been replaced with a cold, white yet natural looking blonde hair color. This is what platinum blonde is: a totally natural looking ultra white blonde.
Platinum blonde is indeed one of the most dramatic shades of blonde, and is often associated with elegance, sophistication, and a touch of edginess. It’s a hair color that can instantly transform your appearance, making a bold and unforgettable statement. And today we are going to show you how you can transform hair into this color.
Who Can Have Platinum Blonde Hair?
There is a common belief that platinum blonde hair color works best only on individuals with fair skin tones and light-colored eyes.
However, at Ugly Duckling we are seeing increasingly that women with darker skin tones are going for Platinum blonde as well.
Whatever your skin color, it is important that the Platinum blonde is correctly done. All the way to level 10 and absolutely white. And without any compromise to your hair integrity. Let’s go into the steps required now.
Preparing the hair for Platinum Blonde - What to do
Many people advise putting in conditioners and coconut oil in the hair or washing it. We don’t.
Getting hair to platinum blonde involves a fairly radical hair transformation up to a level 10 white blonde. If the starting point is brown hair it is going to involve many levels of lift.
The best preparation for this fairly radical makeover is simply to give the hair rest. Advise your client not to wash and not to put products into the hair for seven days. This will give the chance for the scalp to produce some natural oils. And this in turn will protect it when it comes to bleaching time.
Hair Analysis - How to do it
Ok, now it’s the day your client has come in looking to go platinum blonde. Where should you start?
The first step, and indeed the most important step is to do your client’s hair analysis when she is sitting in your chair.
Firstly, you will need to check the overall health of the hair, and make sure that it has not been stressed from previous chemical processes.
Split ends and breakage and excessively fine hair are clear giveaways that the hair has suffered some damage in the past. So look through the hair carefully, from the roots to the ends.
Do a strand test on the hair
We really recommend that you do a simple test of one strand of hair. Do it as follows: wet one strand of hair and pull two ends of that strand apart. If the hair stretches, that means it has retained its elasticity and is basically healthy.
If it does not stretch at all, that may mean that the hair has already had its integrity compromised from previous chemical applications.
Checking the hair level
Check your client's hair level
Once you have done a strand test, you need to check the hair level.
In order to do this, mentally divide up your client’s hair into 3 sections: the root or regrowth area, the mid-lengths and the ends. Then ask yourself what is the color level of these 3 sections.
What color is the regrowth?
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Hair color levels
Start off by looking at the root area, which would be regrowth hair.The hair here is going to be the natural hair color of the client. This hair could be totally black or brown or it could be lighter. Whatever its color, note it down. You are going to need to take that hair all the way to level 10 blonde. Use the chart above to assess the hair level exactly.
What color are the mid-lengths?
Now do the same for the mid-lengths. This part has most likely been colored in the past, and hair that has been colored is generally more difficult and slower to lift. Also bear in mind that the hair here is away from the scalp and will not be getting heat to help process it. Very often, this part of the hair may have some faded color on it and be brassy, with orange or yellow showing. Once again, assess its level exactly. Don’t be wishful or optimistic. Note it down like it is.
What color are the ends?
Lastly, the ends. This part of the hair may be around 2 years old, and chances are it will be thinner: a lot of brushing and styling plus the age of the hair will do that to the hair. It could have been bleached or lightened in the past. It might even be level 10 blonde already, like in the picture above. Once again, note down the level.
We don’t want to over process or repeat-bleach an area which is already level 9 blonde. So we may decide to leave it out of the bleaching process, and just tone it at the end.
Choosing Your Bleach
Mixing Brilliant Blondexx with developer
Since we are aiming for platinum blonde, we will need to take the hair all the way up to a level 10 blonde. There needs to be literally no yellow in it whatsoever when you’re done bleaching.
So the quality of the bleach that you are going to use is going to be key.
We would suggest you use Brilliant Blondexx with Bond Protect.
This bleach is unique in that it contains Bond Protect, or maleic acid, built into the formulation itself. Thanks to this acid, the hair becomes thicker, more voluminous and stronger.
When mixed with developer, this bleach produces a creamy, white mix. This means that this mix is considerably more comfortable on the scalp.
Brilliant Blondexx lifts by up to 7 levels and acts fast.
Choosing Your Developer Strength
We would recommend that you use 20 Vol for lifts of up to 3 levels. And use a 30 Vol developer for lifts higher than that. Bear in mind we have just mentally broken up the hair into 3 sections, and the 3 different sections will probably have totally different lifting needs.
For example, the root area might be dark brown. The mid-lengths might be orange and the ends might already be level 10 blonde.
So in this case, you would need to use different developer mixes. For example, you may end up using a mix with 30 Vol developer on the regrowth area and then a mix using 20 Vol for the mid-lengths, leaving out the ends entirely.
When mixing, use 1 part of bleach to 2 parts developer. This will give you a nice wet mix - wet enough to saturate the hair, but not so wet that it is going to drip off the brush.
Start applying on the darkest hair first. Then apply to other parts. When applying you need to segment finely and make sure that every part of the hair gets into contact with your bleach mix.
Reapplying Fresh Bleach Mix
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This is how the hair should look like after bleaching for Platinum Blonde - almost white.
Whatever your chosen bleach and developer strategy, you will need to be ready and watching. If after 15 minutes or so you can see that there are some parts of the hair which are not going to get to palest yellow/almost white, you will need to make a second mix and re-apply. Use 20 Vol the second time round, never 30 Vol.
Don’t forget that your aim is platinum blonde hair, and for that you absolutely need to aim for a level 10 blonde with minimal, minimal yellow.
The biggest mistake you can make at this stage is not to bleach the hair enough and to rinse too soon. It is a good idea to peel back the bleach mixture from the hair and use your eyes as a hairdresser to look very closely at the hair. If you are seeing yellow or bright yellow, the hair has not been bleached enough. Not enough for platinum blonde, anyway.
Re-apply fresh mix and re-apply, making sure as usual to literally smother the hair. Whack it on fearlessly. Only rinse when the hair is approaching white, as in the picture above.
Apply Purple Shampoo
Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo & Mask
After rinsing we would suggest that you apply purple shampoo or mask. We would recommend Ugly Duckling’s Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo and Mask. These products are sulfate free and acid-based, which is what you need after bleaching. And they contain a lot of purple pigments which will help in reducing whatever yellow you are still seeing after bleaching.
Rub in, leave for 5 minutes and then rinse. Then towel-dry.
Toners for Platinum Blonde Hair
Selecting the right hair toner is crucial for achieving the desired platinum blonde shade.
Here are some toners that we would recommend that you use.
All of them are purple or violet based.
The “V” and the “.2” at the end of the toners indicate that these colors are violet based.
A "Clear" has been included. This can be added to any of the above toners to get the hair shinier, glossier and also to help it lift half a level more.
Extra Light Cool Blonde - 10.2
Natural Violet Blonde 010V - ammonia free, with Bond Protect
Clear - ammonia free, with Bond Protect.
How to mix and apply your toner
Step 1: Divide and Secure: Section your hair into manageable parts using hair clips or ties. This will make it easier to apply the dye evenly.
Step 2: Protect Your Skin: Apply petroleum jelly or a barrier cream along your hairline, ears, and neck to prevent the dye from staining your skin.
Step 3: Mixing the Dye: Follow the instructions provided with the hair dye to mix the color and developer together in a non-metallic bowl. For the cream based toners 1 part toner to 2 part developer is what we normally suggest. For the liquid toners, the mix is 1 part toner to 1 part developer. You can use a bowl and brush for the cream toners. For the liquid toners, you can also apply straight out of a plastic applicator bottle.
Step 5: After applying the product, rub it in the product into the hair with fingers Check the color periodically to monitor the lightening progress. You should be seeing a distinct change in color and tone as the toner starts working on the hair.
Step 6: Rinse and Condition: Once the desired hair color is achieved, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Apply a deep conditioning treatment to nourish and moisturize your hair. We would suggest you use Brilliant Blondexx Shampoo & Mask.
Rinse, towel dry and style.
How to Maintain Platinum Blonde Hair
Congratulations on achieving that stunning platinum blonde hair! Now that you've transformed your locks, it's essential to maintain your hair color to keep it looking fresh, vibrant, and healthy. In this section, we will explore effective tips and techniques to help you maintain your platinum blonde hair.
Regularly Use Purple Shampoo
Purple shampoo is a lifesaver for platinum blondes as it helps neutralize any unwanted yellow or brassy tones that can develop over time. Incorporate purple shampoo into your hair care routine by:
Frequency: Use purple shampoo every 1-2 weeks or as recommended by your hairstylist. Adjust the frequency based on how quickly your hair starts to develop brassy tones.
Application: Apply the purple shampoo to wet hair, focusing on the areas that tend to turn brassy, such as the roots and ends. Leave it on for the recommended time and rinse thoroughly.
Conditioning: Follow up with a moisturizing conditioner to prevent your hair from becoming dry or brittle.
Deep Condition Your Hair
Platinum blonde hair is more prone to dryness and damage due to the bleaching process. Therefore, regular deep conditioning treatments are essential to keep your hair hydrated, soft, and healthy.
We recommend Brilliant Blondexx Shampoo and Mask. It has been formulated for blonde and bleached hair and is enriched with Bond Protect to keep blonde hair voluminous and healthy. Here's how to incorporate deep conditioning into your routine:
Frequency: Deep condition your hair once a week or as needed, depending on its condition. Adjust the frequency based on how dry or damaged your hair feels.
Application: Apply the deep conditioner to clean, towel-dried hair. Leave it on for the recommended time, allowing the product to penetrate your strands. Rinse thoroughly and style as desired.
Avoid Excessive Heat
Excessive heat styling can cause further damage to your already fragile platinum blonde hair. Minimize heat exposure and protect your hair by:
Lowering Heat Settings: When using heat styling tools such as straighteners or curling irons, lower the heat settings to minimize damage. Opt for ceramic or tourmaline tools that distribute heat more evenly.
Heat Protectant: Before using any heat styling tool, apply a heat protectant spray or serum to shield your hair from the direct heat.
Air Drying: Whenever possible, allow your hair to air dry instead of using a blow dryer. This reduces heat exposure and helps maintain the health of your hair.
Touch-ups for Platinum Blonde Hair
Platinum blonde hair will require a touch-up every 6-8 weeks, as the regrowth area grows, and also to add gloss and shine to the lengths.
For the root touch-up, use bleach as previously recommended in exactly the same way.
For toning the hair at the same time, opt for a liquid toner. They are ammonia-free and are great for refresh toning applications.
Further tips for maintaining Platinum Blonde hair
Prevention is key to maintaining the health of your platinum blonde hair and preventing further damage. Consider the following preventive measures:
Regular Trims: Schedule regular trims every 6-8 weeks to remove split ends and keep your hair in its best condition.
Gentle Hair Care: Use gentle hair care products specifically formulated for colored or damaged hair. Avoid harsh shampoos and conditioners that can strip away moisture.
Heat Protectants: Before using any heat styling tools, always apply a heat protectant spray or serum to minimize damage from high temperatures.
Protective Products: Invest in products that offer UV protection to shield your hair from the damaging effects of the sun's rays.
Balanced Diet: A healthy diet rich in vitamins, minerals, and essential fatty acids can promote overall hair health and resilience.
Congratulations on completing this ultimate guide to platinum blonde hair! With the knowledge and tips provided, you are now equipped to embark on your platinum blonde journey with confidence. Enjoy the process as well as the end result!
