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Home Blog Understanding Hair Toners: A Complete Guide for Hair Colorists

Understanding Hair Toners: A Complete Guide for Hair Colorists

BY SALLY MADISON
NATIONAL COLOR TRAINER


What is a Hair Toner?

A hair toner is a hair color product that is used to adjust or maintain the tone of color-treated hair.

It does not lighten the hair but rather deposits color to neutralize unwanted tones, enhance the existing color, and add shine.

Toners are essential in achieving the desired final color, especially after bleaching, which removes the natural pigment from the hair, exposing underlying tones that may need correction

Is a Hair Toner Permanent or Demi-Permanent?

Hair Toner processing on the hair. Most hair toners contain blue, grey and purple pigments in order to color correct.

A permanent hair color contains ammonia, whereas a demi-permanent hair color does not. 

Typically a permanent color will open the cuticle more during the coloring process as compared to a demi-permanent.

Ugly Duckling has both permanent and demi-permanent toners, so that you as a colorist can choose which one you want.

The permanent toners are in cream form, and come in a tube. They will typically give you lift as well as tone.

They are much appreciated by colorists for this reason.

You should use them when your hair is really very brassy and you basically need a total color correction.

The demi-permanent toners, on the other hand are in liquid gel form and go under the brand name Blondify.

You should use them for refresh and retouch applications, for gloss and for shine.

What Does a Hair Toner Do?

Whether you are using a demi-permanent toner or a permanent, a toner does the same thing.

First, it neutralizes unwanted tones.

Very often blonde hair gets brassy or yellow. Hair toners correct for that and give the hair a nicer, whiter reflect.

Hair toners can also work for brunettes and redheads to adjust undertones and achieve a more balanced and more finished color result.

Toners also add depth and richness to the hair color, making it more vibrant and glossy.

This is particularly beneficial after you have bleached the hair, as bleached hair tends to look very flat in color and lacking in depth and dimension.

Toners also add shine to the hair. All Blondify toners, do this by adding a glossy, reflective finish to the hair, improving its overall appearance and health.

Blondify Clear is a stand alone product designed to do just this.

Toners also contain additives that can balance porosity and make the hair look healthier. 

This makes the hair smoother and easier to manage, which in turn reduces breakage and split ends.

All Ugly Duckling toners do this.

How do You Use a Hair Toner?

First step, prepare the hair for toning.

Toners work best on hair that has been bleached or lightened to the desired level. Use a good quality bleach.

The better the bleach you use, the better result you will get.

Try and get your hair to a level 9 or level 10 blonde.

See below, for some pictures as to the result you should achieve.

Bleached hair

Hair which has been correctly bleached to level 10. Ready for toning

Next, mix your toner with developer. 

We generally recommend you mix Ugly Duckling toners with 20 Vol developer.

However, 10 Vol can also work if the hair is really well lightened and all. you are looking to do is tone correction.

Pay attention to the correct mix ratio. The toner you use should provide mix instructions.

For Ugly Duckling cream toners we recommend 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.

Whereas for Blondify liquid gel toners the correct mix is 1 part toner to 1 part developer.

You need to use a coloring bowl to mix cream toners. Make sure you get a really nice smooth paste.

Whereas the liquid gel toners can also be mixed in a plastic applicator bottle. Just shake and you should be ready to apply.

Now, application.

If you have mixed the toners in a bowl, you will need to use your dye brush.

If you have mixed in an applicator bottle, you can pour straight out of the bottle.

Make sure you apply on every bit of the hair. Regardless of how you have applied, it is a good idea to rub in your color into the hair with a little extra color, using fingers. Wear a glove of course.

You will get better color saturation and a more beautiful color result that way.


Processing Time

The processing time for toners can vary from five to twenty minutes, depending on the type of toner and the desired result.

Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for the best outcome.


Aftercare

To maintain the toned color, always use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners, which are color safe.

If possible, use acid-based formulas. This helps the hair cuticles to close and makes for healthier hair.

Consider using purple shampoos or masks to keep brassy tones at bay.

We also recommend that you use Bond Protect hair care also. This will fight against hair breakage and keep the hair strong. Blonde hair which tends to be quite fragile, does need this.

Recommended Products from Ugly Duckling Color

Blondify toner

Blondify Liquid Gel Toner

Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V is ideal for achieving a cool, pearl-like blonde tone.

This toner has 1-2 levels of lift and neutralizes yellow undertones particularly fast.

Intense Silver Blonde Toner 100B is perfect for those looking to achieve a striking silver or platinum blonde look.

It also has 1-2 levels of lift and excellent neutralization. It gives the hair a luminous silver-blonde finish.

Blondify Natural Ash Blonde. This liquid gel toner is great for creating a natural-looking ash blonde shade.

It neutralizes warm undertones and adds a cool, ashy finish to the hair.

Blondify Natural Violet Blonde is best for those who want to neutralize yellow tones and add a hint of violet to their blonde hair.

This toner leaves the hair with a soft, violet-blonde hue that is both unique and flattering.

Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo & Mask will help maintain your white hair after toning.

Brilliant Blondexx Shampoo & Mask with Bond Protect will help keep blonde hair strong and breakage-free.

Conclusion

Hair toners are an indispensable tool in the arsenal of any hair colorist.

They allow for precise customization of hair color, neutralizing unwanted tones, enhancing the desired shade, and adding shine and depth.

By understanding how to use toners effectively and incorporating high-quality products like those from Ugly Duckling Color, hair colorists can achieve stunning, professional results for their clients.

WATCH VIDEO: HOW TO USE A CREAM TONER

WATCH VIDEO: HOW TO USE A LIQUID GEL TONER

WATCH VIDEO: HOW PURPLE SHAMPOO & MASK WORK TO KEEP HAIR WHITE

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.



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