WHICH BLEACH SHOULD I USE?
Which powder lightener is best suited for me?
Which bleach you choose is going to depend on various factors.
Your client's hair condition - is the hair fine or fragile? Or is it thick and strong?
Your client's current hair color - is it level 4 or darker? And has it been colored or toned darker in the past?
How blonde does your client want to be? - is she looking at becoming a level 10 platinum blonde? Or just a medium level 8/9 blonde?
Application technique - Is this going to be a full head color? Or are you looking to blend in with blonde highlights and you don't mind a bit of depth.
Recommended Products
Brilliant Blonde Bleach
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Brilliant Blondexx Bleach with Bond Protect
Ugly Duckling has 2 quite different bleach formulations: Brilliant Blonde Blue Powder Lightener and Brilliant Blondexx White Lightener with Bond Protect.
The main differences between the Brilliant Blonde Powder Lightener and the Brilliant Blondexx Lightener are their formulation, lifting capabilities, and intended use:
Formulation
Brilliant Blonde Powder Lightener: This is a blue-based, dust-free powder lightener designed for very dark and resistant hair types. It is particularly effective for Asian hair, very thick hair, and hair with a lot of color build-up.
Brilliant Blondexx Lightener: This is a white, dust-free lightener that includes Bond Protect technology. It creates a creamy, oily white mixture that is comfortable on the scalp and helps prevent hair breakage during the bleaching process.
Lifting Capability
Brilliant Blonde Powder Lightener: Capable of lifting up to 8 levels, making it suitable for clients with ultra-dark hair who require significant lightening[5][6].
Brilliant Blondexx Lightener: Offers up to 7 levels of lift, making it slightly less powerful in terms of lifting ability compared to the Brilliant Blonde Powder Lightener.
Intended Use
Brilliant Blonde Powder Lightener: Recommended for use on very dark, resistant hair and for achieving high levels of lift when working with heavily colored or build-up hair.
Brilliant Blondexx Lightener: Ideal for on-scalp applications and for clients concerned about hair damage. It is suitable for most common bleaching applications and offers additional protection against hair breakage.
In summary, the Brilliant Blonde Powder Lightener is best for significant lifting on very dark and resistant hair, while the Brilliant Blondexx Lightener is better suited for on-scalp applications and minimizing hair damage.
WATCH BRILLIANT BLONDE BLEACH IN USE ON VERY DARK HAIR:
WATCH BRILLIANT BLONDEXX LIGHTENER IN USE TO LIFT THE ROOT AREA ON VERY BLONDE HAIR:
How to use and apply your bleach
Getting a smooth mix with your bleach is important
Regardless of which of these 2 bleaches you use, you need to learn and use the correct bleaching technique. Sometimes even hairdressers get this technique wrong! So let's review the essentials now.
Developer Choice
The developer, or peroxide, is crucial in the bleaching process as it activates the bleach powder.
The strength of the developer determines the level of lift you can achieve. You should only ever use 20 and 30 Vol developer with your bleach.
It's important to use fresh developer and to avoid using products that have been exposed to heat or are past their expiration date.
20 Volume Developer: Suitable for lifting up to 3 levels. It is generally used for minor lightening and is less damaging, making it ideal for the root area or for hair that is already light.
30 Volume Developer: Used for lifting more than 3 levels. You can use this to lift up to 8 levels. It is more potent and should be used with caution, particularly on the lengths rather than the roots.
Bleaching for the second time
You may not always achieve your targeted level first time round. You can do a second application is such cases. When doing so, always use a 20 volume developer.
Bleaching near the root area
When bleaching near the root area, you should only use 20 Vol. If the lengths on the same hair require 3 or more levels of lift, you will require 30 Vol on that part. So you will need to keep 2 strengths of developer on hand and make separate mixes for the different areas. This sounds complicated but it is not. All good hairdressers do this and it works.
Mix Ratios
The standard mix ratio for bleach and developer is 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer. This ratio ensures a creamy consistency that is easy to apply and provides even coverage.
Producing a Nice Mix
To achieve a smooth mix, combine the bleach powder and developer in a non-metallic bowl. Stir the mixture until it reaches a creamy, lump-free consistency. A smooth mix ensures even application and prevents patchy results.
Application Techniques
For full head applications, section the hair into four sections. Pin back 3 sections and open one section at the back. Segment this section very finely and apply, making sure that you really saturate the air with your bleach mixture. Keep doing this, working your way through the other sections and round to the front. Let the hair process, checking continuously. Re-apply fresh mix as necessary. Rinse after around 45 minutes.
For root retouches and lifting, apply to the root area only, taking care not to overlap. Let the root lift all the way to to where you need it be. If the lengths also need some lifting, you can make some fresh mix and extend for the last 10 minutes.
Processing Time
The processing time for bleach is generally between 30 to 50 minutes, depending on the desired level of lift and the condition of your hair. It is crucial not to exceed the recommended processing time, as this can lead to significant damage. Always check the hair every 5-10 minutes to monitor the lightening process.
What color should the hair look like when I rinse?
Level 10 hair after bleaching
This is a question we get a lot. The answer, in almost all cases, is that it should be as close to level 10 as possible. Never any orange, and as little bright yellow as possible. See the pictures at the top of this blog and also the video tutorial to get a reference.
