Get your hair ice white blonde - in just 45 minutes!

As a professional hair colorist, you need to know how to get your client's hair white blonde.

And you should be able to do it in just 1 sitting. Working fast, it should be possible in just 45 minutes if you do it right.

In this tutorial, we will show you how.

Dark Roots Bleached & Toned - Watch Video

The Double Blonding Process

The technique we will be using today is known as the Double Blonding Process.

This involves first using bleach on the dark parts of the hair (any part which is not level 10 blonde).

The aim is to get every part of your client's hair up to a level 10 blonde.

Step 1: Bleaching

Dark roots which need bleaching

The first step is to apply bleach to any part of your client's hair that is dark.

Very often this is going to be the root area.

But you may need also to apply the bleach on the mid-lengths if the hair is showing a lot of yellow there.

Sometimes hairdressers (especially those who are new to the trade) are hesitant to apply bleach.

But this is an essential skill for a hairdresser, it's almost what distinguishes a good colorist from a less good one.

So let's learn a little about the bleaching process now.

The Bleaching Process

Brilliant Blondexx contains Bond Protect in its formula - prevents hair breakage and minimises scalp irritation.

Let's start with the choice of bleach.

We would suggest you use a high-quality bleach like Brilliant Blondexx.

It is the only bleach that contains Bond Protect. Which means that you will be able to minimize scalp damage and irritation and also avoid hair breakage.

At the same time is is a very powerful lightener. It will effectively lift the hair to the palest yellow, creating an ideal canvas for toning.

It can achieve up to 7 levels of lift.

Applying & Processing the Bleach: 30 minutes

When applying the bleach:

• First make your developer strength choice.
• The rule is to use 20 Vol for the root area and for lifts of up to 3 levels.
• Use 30 Vol for lifts higher than that as long as it is on the length, not the root area.
• You may need to keep 2 developer strengths to hand in certain situations.
• Mix your bleach with developer in a ratio of 1:1. This will give you a reasonably wet mix which is easy and quick to apply.
• Start applying quickly and evenly, starting at the part of the head which is darkest (this is very often the root area with clients who have colored or bleached before)
• Don't be hesitant or timid. A lot of bleach mix is needed and it needs to come into contact with every bit of the hair.
• This means you saturate very heavily - literally smother the hair with the bleach mix. Segment finely to make sure you are not missing any hair.
• Once the dark root area is done, wait 5 minutes, then extend to any other areas which are showing too yellow.
• When extending, don't overlap. Otherwise you could get hair breakage.
• If you have overlapped by mistake, just wipe back with a wet cloth during processing time.
• After 15 minutes, check how the hair has lifted, peeling back some of the mix using a tail-comb.
• It needs to be very very light yellow, like the inside of a lemon peel.
• Process when all the hair has lifted in this way.
• Rinse thoroughly and shampoo with a purple shampoo to get rid of more yellow.

The entire process described above can be done in 30 minutes. Now we have 15 minutes left for the toning.

Toning the hair: 15 minutes

After bleaching, it's crucial to tone the hair to achieve the desired white blonde shade.

Ugly Duckling has perhaps the widest range of toners compared to any professional brand.

And you need good string toners because you have just 15 minutes left.

We would suggest you choose from these professional toners depending on the final look that you are looking to create:

Intense Pearl Blonde 100V: For a pearlescent white blonde

Intense Pearl Blonde 100V gives a pearlescent white blonde

This toner is a cream based toner and it comes in a large 3.5 oz tube.

Mix this with 20 Vol developer in a 1:2 ratio (1 part toner to 2 parts developer) and apply plenty of product, segmenting the hair finely.

Leave to process 15 minutes, then rinse and dry.

This toner has a special boost technology, which essentially means it contains extra lift.

This is a great toner to use if you are looking to get your client super white pearlescent white blonde hair.

Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b: For a clear, natural white blonde

Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.b for a clear, white, natural blonde.

This toner is based on blue based ash pigments at a level 10.

It will give your client a really beautiful clear, white natural blonde look.

Use with 20 Vol developer. Mix this one in a 1:1 ratio as it is a true blonde color.

It will give a very vivid 3D cold blonde look.

Leave 15 to 30 minutes and then rinse.

Natural Ash Blonde 010A: For natural ash blonde look

This toner produces a very natural ash blonde look.

This toner works in just 10 minutes.

This is a good toner to use for clients who want to be blonde, but not necessarily white, white blonde. 

This one is a liquid gel toner, and it is ammonia-free and PPD-free. Plus it contains Bond Protect.

So it's a very gentle toner as well as ultra fast.

Mix it with 20 Vol developer in a plastic applicator bottle, pour over the hair and rub very well in,

Then rinse when done.

Brassy hair turned a natural ash blonde - watch video

Blue Ash Blonde 09B: To tone down very orange hair to a natural blonde.

Use this toner to tone away orange hair and produce a natural ash blonde look.

Our last toner is for those situations when the hair has not been bleached as well as it should be and still contains plenty of yellow.

Maybe even a tinge of orange.

This is also a liquid gel toner, except it is level 9 - so a little bit darker than the other toners mentioned here.

But because it is a level 9 toner, the toning pigments, which are blue ash based, are less sheer.

In other words, this toners is packed with a lot of neutralizing colors.

Which is what you need for toning away very brassy hair.

Toning application tips

• If you bleached before toning, dry hair with a towel to get rid of ash much of the water as possible.
• The cream based toners need to be mixed in a mixing bowl, and applied with a dye brush. 
• The liquid gel toners can also be mixed in an applicator bottle and poured onto the hair
• As usual, make sure the toner comes into contact with every bit of hair.
• Process for 10 -15 minutes, then rinse with cool water.
• Towel and blow-dry at the end.

Conclusion

By mastering this double blonding process and root shadow technique, you'll be able to create stunning white blonde hair with perfectly blended dark roots that your clients will love