The products you should use for grey hair coverage

The Ultimate Guide to Grey Hair Coverage for Hair Coloring Professionals

Grey hair is a reality for most of your clients, and mastering its coverage is crucial for your success as a hair colorist.

In this blog post we are going to dive deep into the intricacies of grey hair coverage, providing you with the knowledge and techniques to achieve flawless, long-lasting results.

Understanding the Enemy: The Science of Grey Hair

Before you can conquer grey, you need to understand it. Grey hair isn't actually grey; it's white. The absence of melanin, the pigment responsible for hair color, causes this. Here's what makes grey hair coverage challenging:

• Resistant Cuticle: Grey hair often has a tighter, more resistant cuticle layer compared to pigmented hair. This makes it harder for the hair color to penetrate and deposit properly.

• Lack of Underlying Pigment: The absence of melanin means there's no warm or cool base for the artificial color to build upon. This can lead to unpredictable results, especially when trying to achieve vibrant or cool-toned shades.

• Texture Changes: Grey hair can often be coarser, drier, and less elastic than pigmented hair, further hindering color absorption and retention.

The Products You Should use for Grey Hair Coverage

We would recommend the products above for grey hair coverage depending on your hair needs:

• 10 minute Color Gels: Color Gels provide superior grey coverage for blondes in just 10 minutes, offering natural-looking results. Perfect for women looking to cover grey hair and go blonde. These should be your go-to colors. 

• Blondify Toners: Blondify toners neutralize unwanted tones such as yellow and orange and add shine to blonde hair. Mix these in with Color Gels to improve the color reflect and arrive at specific toned, blonde results.

• Extra Coverage Series: These are cream based colors. These products are designed for ultra resistant grey hair. They contain extra pigmentation (color molecules, in other words) and are suitable for client who find it difficult to achieve a 100% coverage of their grey hair. Mix them with Color Gels when you need super strong grey hair coverage.

Key Considerations for Grey Hair Coverage

Here are the crucial factors which you will need to consider as a colorist:

• Percentage of Grey: Accurately assess the percentage of grey hair (e.g., 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%). The more grey hair you have, the more you will need to adjust processing time. For over 50% grey hair, for example, you will need to add 10 minutes to your processing time.

• Natural Hair Color: Determine the client's natural hair color level, even if she has a lot of grey hair. Then ask her what her target color is. 

• Desired Hair Color Level: Very often clients want to cover grey and go lighter. So you will need to subtract the target level from your client's natural hair color to figure out how many levels you are looking to go up. For lifts of 1-2 levels, 20 Vol developer is good. For a higher lift, 30 Vol developer will be required.

• Hair History: Inquire about previous color treatments, perms, relaxers, and overall hair health. This helps you anticipate potential challenges and adjust your approach accordingly.

• Sensitivity: Ask about any scalp sensitivities or allergies to hair color ingredients.

Product Selection: Choosing the Right Product

• Covering Grey and Going Blonde

For grey coverage for women looking to go or stay blonde, you should use Ugly Duckling Color Gels. They have been specially designed to cover grey hair and color it blonde at the same time. They give natural blonde results plus grey coverage.They are available in shades from 10N to 6N.

• Covering Grey and Toning Hair 

For women looking to cover grey and also fight yellow and orange tones, we would recommend mixing your chosen Color Gel with a Blondify toner. They will help you create all types of cold, ash and white blonde colors. For example, yo ucan mix Color Gel 10N with Blondify 010V and get blonde coverage and toning at the same tie.

WATCH VIDEO: COVERING GREY HAIR & GOING BLONDE

Hair by Elona Taki

• Coverage for Very Resistant Hair

Finally, in the case of very very resistant grey hair, and in particular darker hair, we recommend mixing in Ugly Duckling's Extra Coverage Series. These give very strong coverage. They are available in 8NN, 6NN and 4NN.

Choosing Developer Volume

The developer volume determines the level of lift and color deposit.

For grey coverage, 20 volume developer is generally good.

However, stubborn grey and higher lift may require 30 volume. 

Application 

• Start Where the Grey is Heaviest: Begin your application in the areas with the highest concentration of grey hair, as these areas typically require the most processing time.

• Saturation is Key: Ensure that the hair is thoroughly saturated with color, especially at the roots. Use a tint brush or your fingers using gloves to work the color into the hair, ensuring every strand is coated. This is the single most important step to achieve the best color results.

• Timely Processing: Follow the recommended processing time. Under-processing is a common cause of poor grey coverage.

• Emulsify and Rinse Thoroughly: Before rinsing, emulsify the color by adding a small amount of water and massaging it into the hair. This helps to loosen the color and ensure even distribution. Rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear.

Troubleshooting Common Grey Coverage Problems

Even with the best techniques, challenges can arise. Here are some common problems and their solutions:

• Color Fades Quickly: This could be due to improper formulation, insufficient processing time, or the client's hair being too porous. Adjust your formula, increase processing time, or recommend a color-safe shampoo and conditioner.

• Uneven Coverage: This could be due to inconsistent application, using too little product, or the hair being too resistant. Ensure thorough saturation and consider pre-softening the hair.

• Hot Roots: This occurs when the roots process faster than the rest of the hair, resulting in a brighter or warmer color at the scalp. Apply the color to the mid-lengths and ends first, then apply to the roots during the last few minutes of processing.

• Color is Too Ashy: This can happen when there is not enough warmth in the formula. Add a small amount of a gold or warm-toned shade to balance the coolness.

Maintaining Grey Coverage at Home

Educate your clients on how to maintain their grey coverage at home to prolong the life of their color. We recommend in particular:

• Sulfate-Free, Acidic Shampoo and Conditioner: These products are formulated to be gentle on colored hair and prevent fading.And also to close the hair cuticle correctly. All Ugly Duckling hair products are sulfate-free and acid-based.

• Avoid Excessive Washing and Very Hot Water: Frequent washing with very hot water can strip the hair of color. Encourage clients to wash their hair less often.

• Use Heat Protection: Heat styling tools can damage the hair and cause color to fade. Recommend using a heat protectant spray before styling.

• Regular Root Touch-Ups: Schedule regular root touch-up appointments to maintain consistent grey coverage.

Conclusion

Mastering grey hair coverage is an ongoing learning process.

By understanding the science of grey hair, considering the key factors, and utilizing our simple recommended products and steps, you can confidently deliver flawless, long-lasting results that leave your clients feeling happy, confident, and youthful.

Keep experimenting, refining your techniques, and staying up-to-date with the latest advancements in hair color technology to provide your clients with the best possible service.