HAIR COLOR LEVELS

• Hairdressers use an international numbering system to describe the lightness of hair color in humans.
• The color levels go from 1 Black all the way up to 10 Extra Light Blonde.
• The most commonly occurring hair color in European hair is typically level 6 for France, and level 7 for North European countries.
• Hispanics & Middle Eastern women typically have hair which is level 4-5.
• Indians most commonly have hair which is level 3-4.
• Asians (Chinese, Japanese, Koreans) typically have hair which is level 2-3.
• But be aware that there is a huge variety inside each race and country.
• The first thing a hairdresser needs to do when a client sits in her chair is to establish what the true natural level of her client's hair color is.
• Use a hair chart if necessary to physically check and assess.

HAIR COLOR REFLECTS 

• The hair color reflect refers to the secondary color which has been added in a permanent hair color
• These colors are essentially enhancers.
• This can rapidly get very confusing as there are 2 reflect systems out there.
• In addition, every manufacturer has their own tweaks which makes life even more complicated.
• Please realize that every manufacturer's formulation is unique.
• Just because you love that JP Mitchell 10V it does not mean that an Ugly Duckling 10.2 ( that's what we call 10V) or a Matrix 10V is going to be the exact same thing.
• Nevertheless, they serve at best as a guide to the manufacturer's intentions.
• After that, you the colorist needs to try out and use different brands for the same color and find out which works best for you.
• Also be aware that certain hair color brands are tuned warmer, others are tuned colder (JP Mitchell & L'Oreal for example are tuned warmer, more golden, whereas Ugly Duckling is tuned colder and ashier).
• Some brands are really going for maximum grey hair coverage, others (like Ugly Duckling) are going for greater color vibrancy.

• To understand a hair color, just read the number from left to right.
• The first number will always refer to the hair color level.
• The numbers or letters after that refer to the reflects - there may be more than 1 reflect.
• Below is how it is displayed on Ugly Duckling's tubes.
• A 100 at the front means that the product has some degree of high lift built in.
• Once again, the exact degree of high lift will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

HOW UGLY DUCKLING TONERS GET THEIR NUMBER & LETTER

• An Ugly Duckling toner with booster inside will carry the number 100.
• A no-lift Ugly Duckling toner will carry the number 10, which is the level of hair color it gives.
• The letter V indicates Violet. A V toner is violet {purple} based - we use the terms violet and purple interchangeably.
• The letter B indicates Blue. A B toner is blue based.