We often get asked: should I use a high lift color or a bleach?
Which would be better for my hair, or my client's hair?
In this blog tutorial, we go through the advantages of using High Lift Colors versus Bleach.
And we will give you a recommendation when to use each product.
What is High Lift Color?
High lift hair color is basically a version of permanent color with much much more lift than a regular color.
The key difference is that high lift colors have higher concentrations of ammonia.
Ugly Duckling high lifts, for example, which are some of the most powerful on the market, typically contain around 3.5% ammonia.
That may not sound like much, but it is around double what a regular color contains.
The ammonia is a key activator which helps swell open the hair cuticle to allow the natural melanin of your hair to get taken out.
This is what causes the hair to go significantly lighter.
Ugly Duckling High Lift Colors contain pigments as well as pure high lift. So they will tone or color the hair as well as lift it.
How much can High Lift Colors lift?
Used correctly you can get as much as 5 levels lift using an Ugly Duckling High Lift Color.
Maybe even more if you use foils, heat and you leave on for 10 extra minutes.
See below for a use of high lift color on dark virgin hair.
Which are Ugly Duckling's High Lift Colors?
Ugly Duckling's range of High Lift Colors are given below:
High Lift Blonde 100
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High Lift Ash Blonde 100.10
High Lift Deep Ash Blonde 100.11
Can you show me an example of High Lift Color on dark hair?
Yes of course. See below.
Before
High Lift Color: Natural Virgin Level 3.
After
Ugly Duckling High Lift Color: Level 6/8
Watch Video Tutorial For Process & Recipe.
Hair by Elona Taki.
Can you show me an example of High Lift Color on medium blonde hair?
Yes, see the case below.
Use of High Lift Color on a Blonde Client's Regrowth Level 7 in place of bleach
Before
Roots are Level 7 Before High Lift Color. Lengths are level 9.
After
Roots successfully lifted. Lengths also toned. The whole hair is equalized at level 9 and consistent.
Watch Video Tutorial For Process & Recipe.
Hair by Elona Taki.
Will a High Lift Color Work on Dyed Hair?
In the case above, we applied High Lift Color on the natural re-growth area. Then we extended onto the lengths to tone.
But if you are trying to achieve lift on already dyed hair, then the answer is - no, high lift color will not work.
You will need to use bleach to lighten the artificially colored hair melanin inside your hair cortex.
So How do I Use High Lift Color?
Use Ugly Duckling High Lift Colors with 30 Vol developer, in a 1+2 mix.
The stronger developer also plays its part at significantly increasing lifting capability.
Increase processing time to around 50 minutes for maximum lift.
You can use heat to help the lifting process. A hair dryer will also work if you are an at-home stylist.
Or place the client under a hood dryer for a few minutes - not too hot, please!
You can also use foils. This also helps to preserve the heat coming off the scalp.
If you are doing a full head application on long hair, you may consider applying on the root area at a later stage.
It will process faster there because of the heat from the scalp, and you need to avoid the "hot root" syndrome - roots over-processed relative to ends.
Which High Lift Colors Should I Use?
We would recommend you use high lift colors with ash built in.
This helps to tone hair as you lift it & prevent it from going too brassy.
The shades of Ugly Duckling High Lift Color given below are intensely pigmented with ash.
They are widely used by stylists in America and we would recommend them.
 High Lift Ash Blonde 100.10 |  High Lift Deep Ash Blonde 100.11 |
How does this compare to a Bleach?
A hair bleach is any product containing persulfates.
In particular, a bleach will contain one or more of the following persulfates: Potassium persulfate, ammoniam persulfate and sodium persulfate.
These persulfates, when mixed with developer, can lighten faster and more effectively than any high lift color.
A bleach is the most effective hair lightening process there is.
If you are trying to get to a really white blonde result, rather than just lift by a couple of levels, we would recommend that you use bleach followed by a toner.
Typically, this is what a stylist would do.
But aren't Bleaches Harmful?
All bleaches work by opening up the hair cuticle and stripping the hair of its natural colors.
In that sense, it is better not to bleach too often.
And always do a scalp sensitivity test as well as a strand test before you do a full head application.
That said, and done correctly, and using good quality bleaches you will find it is the best and the safest way of taking a client blonde.
Far better, for example, than repeated applications of color products which don't lift correctly.
You can really damage hair that way - and end up with poor color results as well.
Ugly Duckling has a bleach which contains Bond Protect, which protects and strengthens the hair during the bleaching process.
It's called Brilliant Blondexx.
We are the only ones with this bleaching technology.
Brilliant Blondexx - Bleach with Bond Protect
Watch Video Below:
Hair by Elona Taki.
So which Bleach is Better?
Contrary to popular belief, all bleaches are not identical.
The single best thing a stylist can do to achieve great results is to use a good quality bleach.
We would recommend Brilliant Blondexx. It has Bond Protect built in - one of the few bleaches on the market which does.
Brilliant Blondexx lifts by up to 7 levels.
It is generally used with 20 Vol and 30 Vol developer. It can be used safely near the root area.
But if you have very dark hair (level 3 and darker) or if you have colored hair darker and have a lot of color build-up, then it would be better to use our 8 level lift bleach Brilliant Blonde.
It is a 8 level bleach designed for very dark, stubborn hair.
Its lifting properties are truly excellent and it acts very fast, minimizing the time your bleach mix needs to stay in contact with the hair.
It is generally used with 20 and 30 Vol developer.
In general, we do not advice stylists to use 40 Vol with bleach. It literally blows apart the hair and is better avoided.
When do I use High Lift and When do I Use Bleach (& Toner) ?
If you need to lift by more than 3-4 levels, we would recommend you bleach & tone. You will get better results that way.
However, as we saw, if you are realistic in your hair goals it is totally possible as we showed above to get significant lift without using bleach.
And if your hair has fairly light hair, for example level 7, it is totally possible when using high lifting blonding products to get your client to blonde just by using high lift color.
But for all other cases, bleaching (followed by toning) is the best thing to do.
How to Go White Blonde
The most reliable, damage-free way to achieve stunning white blonde results is to bleach and then tone.
This process is what stylists call a "double-process blonding" and it is safe, effective and produces the best results.
In most cases, we would recommend this process for those looking to go seriously blonde or taking their clients seriously blonde.
How do I Choose a Toner After Bleaching?
As we discussed above, bleaching should be followed by toning in most cases for best results.
Use one of Ugly Duckling's toners with 20 Vol developer for 10-15 minutes.
For more information on Ugly Duckling toners, go here.
Bottom line: High Lift or Bleach?
So conclusion time! High Lift or Bleach? Which should you use?
If your client is looking for a nice amount of lift on dark hair as in the image and video above, use Ugly Duckling's high lift colors.
If you are only looking to lift by a couple of levels, then you can also use High Lift.
But for serious blonding, use bleach followed by a toner.
This will give you consistent blonding results.
Lastly, when bleaching and toning, use quality products. That way you will not be compromising hair integrity.
